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“Take care of your memories - for you cannot relive them.”
— Nick Drake
21-an-intrepid-snowboarder-slacklines-on-the-closed-cuboré-chairlift.jpg

The Other Side of the Swiss Wall

Kate MacLeod April 27, 2021

Switzerland’s ski resorts turned off their lifts this weekend for the last time, closing a season in which, to wide-spread condemnation and concern from its neighbouring countries – and some of its own residents – it kept its ski resorts open to all throughout winter.

Despite the criticism, however, hindsight is showing that the safety measures put in place by the authorities and resorts proved successful in achieving a crucial balance between the health of the economy and the mental and physical wellbeing of the many skiers, from Switzerland and beyond, who were able to safely enjoy fresh air, a much-loved sport and spectacular mountain scenery.

Perhaps the divide created between Switzerland’s stance and that of their neighbours is best symbolised by the literal divide created by the French closures in the vast Portes du Soleil ski area, which interlinks France and Switzerland.

Here, the infamous Swiss Wall, or Chavanette, one of the world’s steepest ski pistes, functions as one of three connecting runs between the Avoriaz ski area on the French side and the Swiss pistes of Champéry.

With the lifts on the French side closed, and only key link pistes open for ongoing seasonal maintenance, however, Avoriaz locals who wanted to take advantage of the groomed Swiss pistes and operating lifts had to do so by ski touring, splitboarding or snow-shoeing  up from Avoriaz, which sits at 1800 metres, to the 2144 Pas de Chavanette. (A longer route from Les Lindarets to Pointe des  Mossettes was frequented less.)

Meanwhile, on the other side of the wall, the Swiss precautionary enforcement of facemasks in queues and on chairlifts, and resort restaurants open for takeaway only, were the only indicators that it was not a typical season.

This photo essay documents the closed French side during a bluebird week in March. In a normal year, this would be peak-season, with big queues for chairlifts and scores of skiers and snowboarders revelling in the simple, life-affirming pleasures of riding fresh powder in the Spring sunshine…

A closed piste sign on the French / Swiss boundary at the top of Chavanette (The Swiss Wall)
A closed piste sign on the French / Swiss boundary at the top of Chavanette (The Swiss Wall)
An early morning ski tourer on the approach to the Swiss Wall from France
An early morning ski tourer on the approach to the Swiss Wall from France
A ski tourer approaches Switzerland from the French side
A ski tourer approaches Switzerland from the French side
A skier removes his touring skins at the top of the closed Chavanette chairlift before crossing over into Switzerland
A skier removes his touring skins at the top of the closed Chavanette chairlift before crossing over into Switzerland
Skiers and boarders tour and split up the closed French pistes towards Switzerland
Skiers and boarders tour and split up the closed French pistes towards Switzerland
Les Choucas chairlift, Avoriaz
Les Choucas chairlift, Avoriaz
Shut lift gates heaped with snow, Avoriaz
Shut lift gates heaped with snow, Avoriaz
Keen locals tour and split up the hill to take advantage of fresh powder on the ungroomed Avoriaz pistes
Keen locals tour and split up the hill to take advantage of fresh powder on the ungroomed Avoriaz pistes
The busiest spot in Avoriaz...noon outside the only open cafe on a bluebird day
The busiest spot in Avoriaz...noon outside the only open cafe on a bluebird day
The main Avoriaz motorway beneath Plateau chairlift at noon on a bluebird March day
The main Avoriaz motorway beneath Plateau chairlift at noon on a bluebird March day
A bridge on the main Avoriaz motorway
A bridge on the main Avoriaz motorway
A woman pulls a sled of shopping on the Avoriaz motorway piste
A woman pulls a sled of shopping on the Avoriaz motorway piste
Legendary Avoriaz restaurant, Le Yeti, blanketed in snow
Legendary Avoriaz restaurant, Le Yeti, blanketed in snow
Popular party and table dancing spot, La Folie Douce
Popular party and table dancing spot, La Folie Douce
A closed T-bar doesn't stop dedicated skiers and boarders from riding the Avoriaz park
A closed T-bar doesn't stop dedicated skiers and boarders from riding the Avoriaz park
An empty connecting piste, Avoriaz
An empty connecting piste, Avoriaz
Mosettes chairlift, an access point back to Switzerland from France, sits empty
Mosettes chairlift, an access point back to Switzerland from France, sits empty
A deserted cafe terrace besides the Mosettes chairlift, France
A deserted cafe terrace besides the Mosettes chairlift, France
Powder tracks on the ungroomed Cuboré piste created by bootpackers and tourers hiking / touring up
Powder tracks on the ungroomed Cuboré piste created by bootpackers and tourers hiking / touring up
Cuboré chairlift sits empty and snow-covered
Cuboré chairlift sits empty and snow-covered
A snowboarder slacklines high above the ground on the closed Cuboré chairlift
A snowboarder slacklines high above the ground on the closed Cuboré chairlift
An empty lift hut at the top of Cuboré
An empty lift hut at the top of Cuboré
Cuboré chairlift
Cuboré chairlift
A partially buried sign at the top of the two Cuboré pistes
A partially buried sign at the top of the two Cuboré pistes
Cuboré
Cuboré
A splitboard at the top of a closed French piste - the Swiss range of Les Dents du Midi in the backgroun
A splitboard at the top of a closed French piste - the Swiss range of Les Dents du Midi in the backgroun
← A sunny afternoon of water fights and sailingSaas-Fee Stomping Grounds Projects white-out photo-shoot →

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